Are you wondering where to buy a pineapple plant? in this article we will not only let u know where to buy but also recommend the best pineapple plant for you.
Before that, some little history:
The pineapple plant originated from southern America, where it was heavily cultivated by the natives before spreading out to the Caribbean.
During one of his voyages, Christopher Columbus stopped briefly at the island of Guadalupe where his crew gathered fruits and vegetables, which included pineapples.
He then took them with him to Europe. Voyagers then took them to Hawaii in 1527. Here it was highly favored by the climatic conditions and it thrived well. The pineapple has been an exotic gift for ages.
They have thrived in hot areas with water, which is why it does well in Hawaii, Brazil and Thailand. One third of the world’s pineapple is produced from Hawaii, making the island a reputable and guaranteed source of the plant.
Growing a pineapple plant can be easy because it literally just requires the planting of the crown. However, this may take longer to fruit. You have the option to get them as they have rooted from your nearest nursery. However, in the urban setting, it can be hard to locate a nursery, so you can order the plant online. There are numerous sites where you can order one that you want. Websites like Amazon, EBay and Shopify are some of the few where you can find the pineapple plant.
These two plants are the most recommended in the market today
This plant comes comes potted, so you have the option to either keep it that way or transplant it on to a paddy. Since it comes potted, it has already rooted so if it is going the transplanted, in the right conditions, it will adjust fast and continue with growth.
It fits in a 4 inch pot, which is a good size for someone who would like it to fit in small spaces. It comes stamped by the department of agriculture, so you can be assured it has no pests or diseases.
It is a species that does well indoors, so even in the areas that are prone to harsh weather, the plant still blossoms and fruits.
It only grows 2.1-2.5 inches, so it is not a nuisance when grow indoors or as a hanging plant.
It makes a good rustic piece of décor so apart from its nutritional benefits, it can act as a decoration especially when planted in a beautiful planter.
A pineapple is not only a source of healthy vitamins but also a cool refreshment that can be taken as fruit, juice, and pudding or in many other ways. Many people these days prefer to go the organic and natural way.
It is also used to make pineapple wine. Since refined sugars are unhealthy, the pineapple is a great source of sugar.
Pineapples also contain bromelain, a rare proteolytic enzyme which reduces inflammation of joints and muscles. This works well for people with arthritis. The pineapple is one of the richest sources of vitamin C, which helps in boosting the immunity of the human body.
Due to its high vitamin C content, it is a good remedy for common cold and other respiratory issues. It helps in eliminating mucus and phlegm, which is useful in terms of such illness.
Pineapples are also good for oral health. It has astringent properties which help in strengthening the gum and teeth.
The pineapple is also a great source of fiber, which helps the body in digestion.
Gardening and keeping of live plants in the urban setting has gained popularity, and why decorate the place with plants that only flowers while you could do it with ones that actually bear fruit? Think of it as nature’s reward for taking good care of the plant.
In order to make sure it thrives well, one has to ensure it gets the right amount of sunlight, meaning if it is an indoor plant, it will have to be put in a position where the sun can reach it, like a window.
The pineapple plant is one of the most beautiful of them all. With its sharp leaves, it provides the perfect rustic setting for your house or even your office.
The pineapple plant produces only one fruit at a time, so it is easy to maintain and cultivate. It is also a fleshy plant, so it does not require as much watering as other plants.
Due to its short size, it is great for any kind of garden, both indoor and outdoor. It is a great choice of a plant to give as a gift.
Lima beans originated from South and Central America’s and do well in temperatures over 60 degrees. They also grow easily indoors and even in cups. Today, we will learn on how to grow lima beans in a cup.
Read on if you want to become a guru in growing lima beans indoors.
For lima bean recipes this link will come in hardy.
First, let’s start with the basics…acquiring the seed:
The seeds are available from a number of vendors. Here we list a few;
As you would expect, Amazon is your go-to solution whenever your neighborhood stores are not forthcoming.
They stock a number of Lima beans seed varieties.
Here is a link to Amazon.com on Lima beans seed varieties section
The other online store we found Lima Beans seeds on sale is Ebay. You can check their options.
There is also a sprinkling of a few stores, nurseries and individuals who pack certified Lima Bean Seeds for sale. The variety and packaging differ so it’s advisable to contact them directly.
You may actually find one in your locality so start there.
Gardeners cherish lima beans due to fast growth and minimal maintenance.
Understanding its life cycle stages will help you care for this awesome vegetable and ensure optimal success plus a big harvest.
The 4 keys stages are:
The cycle starts with you planting the flat, round Lima bean seed. Remember that every bean has 2 identical sides with the embryo (tiny plant) at the centre.
Plant it in your planter of choice and water.
Your seeds should germinate within 7-14 days.
After watering, the seed will germinate. The hard shell around your lima bean will burst open with the root now starting to grow downwards (from your bean towards the ground).
This paves way to the seedlings..
Gradually, the Lima bean moves above the ground with a stem now appearing on the fledgling plant.
Its roots are now anchoring your plant firmly to the ground.
After a couple of days, leaves will appear on the plant’s stem and start growing towards the sunlight.
Your plant is now a seedling.
It takes around 2-3 months for the seedlings to reach their mature height of approximately 24 inches when they also start producing the pods
Lima pods duly grows from around 60 days and will start to ripen.
Finally, the ripe pods crack open and “throws” the Lima seeds out and away. Each of the seeds may be harvested or left to again germinate (provided conditions permeate)
It will be between 75-80 days from planting, before your lima bean plant is ready for harvesting.
And that, ladies and gentlemen is the lima bean plant life cycle.
Let us now have a look at how to grow lima beans in a cup….
First, why would you want to grow Lima beans in a cup?
There are a few compelling reasons…
First, it’s a great method to demonstrate Lima bean’s growing process in a classroom setting…. justification being that the plants sprout quickly, and need very little care.
Then, if the outdoor conditions are presently harsh, gardeners will use this method to commence growing plants as the wait for the growing conditions to improve.
So, that’s why..
Get the seeds for your favorite bean plant from your chosen seed supplier. Be advised that dried beans don’t germinate well since the may have been preserved to be eaten, not grown.
Pick a cup and fill soil to its top.
Make a hole in your soil at the mid of your cup by inserting one finger 1-inch deep into the soil
Push the Lima bean into the bottom of your hole then cover that hole with soil.
Also, compress the soil slightly to ensure it isn’t too loose. Do not over- compress as you may block its roots and those of other growing parts.
Water your seed gently. You may just sprinkle enough water since the idea is to moisten the soil- remember beans grow better in moist soil (not wet).
Now Place your cup in a spot with lots of sunlight. It will need plenty of light for between 6-8 hours daily. Also remember to water it on demand
Over the following few days, your seeds will sprout! And also begin growing roots. This should be between 3-5 days after step 6.
When its roots reach around 1 ½ inches long, transfer it to clay pots.
Fill your pot with soil, and then create 2 holes using your finger in the soil.
Then, place the beans- roots side down- in the pot, still using your finger. Then cover with more soil.
Continue watering the plants so that the soil remains damp.
It will now be approximately 6-9 days since you planted.
Your plants should break out of the soil and grow leaves a few days after planting.
This should be 10-11 days from the planting.
To do well, the soil around the plant should always be moist, never wet or soggy. Problems like poor seed germination, diseases and pests arise if you let the soil soak at any given time during the process.
So, thats how to grow lima beans in a cup and as you can see, it’s so easy- everyone can do it.
The other important thing is to remember to take care of the plant during the various stages of its life cycle.
As usual, drop us a comment and also share this!
Your fellow gardener…
Have you been wondering why and Where to buy activated charcoal for plants and horticultural charcoal uses? This article will guide you.
There are many places where you can buy activated charcoal, from agrovets to pharmacies. Due to its many uses, you can find it anywhere that sells medicinal products, including herb shops.
You can also order online from trade sites like Amazon, Shopify, eBay, Alibaba and many more.
This would be a personal recommendation for several reasons.
First of all, it is the second layer in the terrarium. Which means it acts as some kind of filter. You will only need a thin layer to cover the drainage.
The amount of charcoal that would be required would be a half of the drainage layer. This horticultural charcoal is a bonus for anyone since it can be used to culture spring tails.
It absorbs odors and helps in maintaining a freshness around the house or even in the garden.
This 24 ounce part of activated charcoal is great for potting plants as it absorbs impurities when mixed with the soil in your pots.
This helps the plants to access nutrients and water in a purer form, boosting their health.
It is an efficient way of ensuring your plants have a natural drainage system.
Still, on where to buy activated charcoal, we also stumbled on this excellent garden charcoal.
One of the purest out there, this works wonders on your soil… Talk about enhancing air circulation,adsorption of impurities and improving water/nutrients retention, it does them well and expertly.
And it’s easy to see why- it comes from the finest Chinkapin Oak Hardwood
This is a premium grade horticultural charcoal. Mixed with Bituminous coal, this potting charcoal is crushed to tiny sizes so that it can cover a greater surface area.
Smaller fragments pack tightly minimizing gaps so there is more value for your money.
One of the best charcoal soil, it’s immense in absorbing odors from your compost or even manure
This activated charcoal powder bulk undergoes a special purification process so it’s very fresh by the time it lands in your hands
Sizing is a common issue in most of the cheap activated charcoal brands. This is specially sized to make its application hassle-free.
It’s also one of the most efficient activated charcoal granules.. In fact, some of its fans have claimed as twice as effective as its nearest terrarium charcoal competition.
Made from coal material, this raw charcoal alternative excels purifying soil and eliminating odors.
And it’s one of the activated charcoal for plants that’s versatile enough for use in other areas like tackling discoloration in the aquarium
The question "where can i buy activated charcoal" can be tricky for gardeners who deal with heavy soils…That’s because not many stores stock activated charcoal bulk dedicated to heavy soils.
Now, one of the few bulk activated charcoal for heavy soil is This black gold quart charcoal soil. It performs like a master in conditioning heavy soils improving not only the texture but also density, aeration, and even drainage.
And this bulk activated carbon will also absorb excess moisture on top of removing odors
So, if you are looking for an activated charcoal bag that will be Effective even in sweetening heavy soils in terrariums and your pots, then this activated carbon bulk will leave you smiling from ear to ear
Before tackling the question of where to buy activated charcoal powder, it’s good that we know what activated charcoal gardening is.
Now, activated charcoal is a non-toxic type of charcoal formed when wood is exposed to extremely high temperatures with the intention of making it highly porous.
Due to the subsequent high porous property, activated charcoal for terrariums is a good absorbent and an essential input in modern-day gardening.
I will soon be answering where to buy activated charcoal in store but let’s first understand the whole process of making activated carbon.
Making of activated charcoal terrarium can be summarized as a 2-stage process.
Carbonization is the act of taking any carbon-rich material such as coal, peat, or even organic carbonaceous material through a heating process technically called pyrolysis in order to convert it into pure carbon.
Normally, the activated charcoal for terrarium is exposed to hot temperatures of between 600–1200 °C.
The next and last stage is oxidation.
During this process, carbonized charcoal is exposed to either steam or air with temperatures of as high as 1200 °C.
The goal is to increase the surface of the charcoal so that it finally becomes porous and well aerated.
This is what makes activated charcoal to have a small surface with high adsorption qualities.
Even though you can use a substitute for activated charcoal in potting or to improve compost, hardly can you get the adsorption you get when you buy activated charcoal
Recently someone emailed us with an email asking “is charcoal ash good for plants?”
Well, what I can say is that when you buy activated carbon, you can put it into numerous uses in your yard.
It’s one of those underrated but very powerful farm essentials.
Let’s look at some of the reasons why you should buy activated charcoal powder
In the house, you can use it to remove molds around your house and other damp locations.
Remember Mold can be everywhere and moldy environment can cause numerous problems including irritation, encouraging bacteria growth and many more
When mixed with soil, it improves its porousness and water retaining abilities. This way, the soil will hold water for longer saving you from constant watering.
It also means your plants stay hydrated for longer and this could be highly beneficial to plants which need a lot of water like scarlet swamp hibiscus.
You can also use it to filter water impurities.
Charcoal for plants is MEANT to promote healthy potted plants.
This is achieved by improved water retaining qualities of the soil and helps the fertilizer function more effectively.
Again with higher moisture retention, potted plants will require less watering.
It is also useful in eliminating smells.
If you have a fungal problem, you can call on activated carbon.
It also does well in removing odors in your fridge or an area where your pet has been living.
Activated Charcoal adsorbs chemicals and toxins which accumulate in the soil over time posing a threat to your plant
Due to its good adsorbent properties, it draws out the toxins out of your soil hence it’s becoming a common practice to see gardeners mixing it with soil when preparing for planting.
Apart from its uses in farming, it also lots of health benefits. Here are some of its health applications:
So, as you can see, there are plenty of reasons why you should ask “where can i purchase activated charcoal?”
However, for this post, our discussion will revolve around activated charcoal for gardening.
A terrarium full of moss and small plants that start off as a delightful miniature forest can easily deteriorate into one smelly, humid swamp just because you forgot activated charcoal.
So, even though you are often told you can leave it out in multiple terrarium-making tutorials; activated carbon should be layered just beneath the soil in all closed-top terrariums.
Hence, Even before you decide what to plant in a terrarium, find out where to purchase activated charcoal and purchase some.
A ½ inch layer of good-quality activated charcoal added under the soil & between asphagnum moss upper layer and gravel or pebbles on the lower layer acts as an excellent filter pulling toxins and all bacteria out of the soil/water.
It also deodorizes the terrarium.
If you are really into boutique gardening, you will want to know where to buy activated charcoal for terrariums
Now, the good news is that most of the online stores like Amazon and Wal-Mart cater for artistic gardening and don’t add huge markups like it is the case with some of the specialty stores.
Even as you ponder on activated charcoal powder where to buy, let me highlight how to choose the correct activated charcoal for your lawn
Applications broadly fall into 2 groups: water/fluid filter and air/vapor filter applications. Air/vapor filters mostly use the larger sized granular activated charcoal (GAC) while water /fluid applications tend to use smaller GAC and also powdered activated charcoal (PAC).
Sufficient contact time (with the activated charcoal) is crucial. The smaller your charcoal particles are, the faster the action will be.
But smaller particles may restrict the flow of nutrients and water. Therefore, try to strike a balance.
What is the molecular size of your target contaminant?
There are 3 basic activated charcoal pore structures:
Match your target contaminant to the correct pore size.
For instance, activated charcoal made from coconut shell has a micro pore structure- perfect for small air/gas molecules.
For wood-based charcoal, expect more mid-range pores.
Finally, coal-based activated carbon has larger macro-pores –perfect for larger color/protein molecules.
The following are some of the questions frequently asked regarding activated charcoal for plants
This restores approximately 90% of the prior activity level, so it’s still safe and effective.
Only around 5 - 50% of the initial activity level is restored.
Ignoring costs, each of these activated charcoal raw materials has its own special qualities that make them fit some applications more than others.
Upon activation, each produce different internal pore structures hence accommodate molecules of different sizes
For instance, coconut activated charcoal shines for air/vapor applications targeting odor control.
On the hand, coal-based activated charcoal is superb for color removal.
Sure yes. Activated charcoal is the lay term while “Activated carbon” is common commonly in manufacturing circles.
After knowing where to buy charcoal, know how to store it.
For sure, its life can be indefinite if you store it in airtight containers
Otherwise, if left open, in time it will adsorb many pollutants and subsequently “fill up.”
Activated Charcoal is to a large extent considered Safe.
Some manufacturers actually go farther to certify their product under agencies such as ANSI
In this post, I have tackled the question of where to buy activated charcoal for plants and Horticultural charcoal uses..
We have seen that most of the online stores like Amazon, Wal-Mart, and Alibaba will stock activated charcoal.
Another option would be to type ‘where can i buy activated charcoal powder’ in your browser or even ‘activated charcoal where to buy’.
And because activated charcoal has tremendous benefits, knowing where can you buy activated charcoal can give your plants the impetus they need to start glowing all over again.
We have recently been receiving occasional emails asking how to harvest leaf lettuce so it keeps growing.
Well, here is my story:
As a first timer, I thought that once you pick your loose leaf lettuce, that’s it. That was because I used to think that you should dig out the entire head when harvesting lettuce.
Imagine I actually did it once with my first batch? (I can see you laughing…)
Well, friends there is another method.
Aptly named “cut and come again”, this method will extend your plant’s growing period and supply you with greens throughout the summer months. You literally cut, leave it and return for more healthy greens. For this reason, lettuce is among the popular cut and come again vegetables
In this article, I will lay out in the open all facts about this convenient lettuce harvesting method.
I will also show you exactly how it’s done.
Shall I show this method?
Lettuce grows well in cool weather and will even excel in partial shade. Now, unlike other lettuces like iceberg, loose leaf lettuce will never form a head. Instead, it grows loose leaves.
So, what does this mean?
It means that harvesting this lettuce simply involves picking the leaves.
Now, when should you start harvesting?
Well, you can start as soon as the leaves form- but ensure it’s before the formation of its seed stalk.
Although it may vary from one variety to the next, generally look for leaves that are starting to get crisp and those beginning to look fully grown.
These are the ones ready for cutting.
Remember that older leaves will have a poor or bitter flavor, regardless of how well they are harvested.
But, your timing can have an impact on the quality you get
It’s like this:
Leaves harvested earlier in the morning, like around 7 a.m., have approximately double the plant sugars available in the leaves harvested at around 2 p.m.
Also, early morning wounds start to heal well before they are exposed to hot sun- which is known to scorch tissues
In short, Cut it early –it sweeter and convenient!
Is your child interested in gardening? This popular gardening tools for kids will help you raise a young gardener.
Another question is that of yield.
Now, cutting down the entire plant down to approximately 1 inch normally yields a larger harvest of loose-head greens.
You can repeat harvest 2-3 times. After this, expect the quality of your leaves to decline.
Even the romaine and butter head lettuce varieties can still be cut to 1 inch though for them, the remaining stubs will often generate a weaker but still edible second growth.
with the basics tackled, let’s see now the “cut and come again” method step-by-step
Get and wipe clean a pair of scissors (sharp).
This ensures you do not contaminate the lettuce leaves when harvesting. And it’s important since a contaminated plant cannot continue growing.
Cut your outer lettuce leaves approximately 1-inch above the crown. This will protect the crown for continued growth.
Then, cut off the required amount of lettuce leaves. Cut leaves at between 3 & 6 inches.
To encourage further growth, Water your lettuce regularly- even after the first harvesting. Stop when the soil is moist and avoid standing water (or soaking the soil).
The water also discourages bolting- that is the plant starting to seed, which means your plant will have more time to yield additional lettuce leaves.
If you have a lettuce plant that starts to grow tall, remove its center before just before it begins bolting.
You’ll slow down bolting and in turn harvest, more greens before your lettuce plants eventually go to seed.
Now we are looking at the specific varieties:
Also read how to grow broccolini your family will love.
Finally, let’s talk about how to harvest romaine lettuce. Here are some special tips for this variety;
So, that is how to harvest leaf lettuce so it keeps growing. I hope you won’t make the same mistake like I did those early days.
Otherwise, Let us know how your lettuce planting is taking you from the comments section.
Growing vegetables in clay soil can be punishing if you scarcely know where to start.
Yes, you can call Clay all the bad names- frustrating, heavy, stubborn and even stupid.
But in my opinion, clay is indeed a fertile growing medium- if you understand how to massage it!
And today, I will show you how to make your garden look like a real garden and not a pottery studio!
Most people dismiss clay as not good enough for veggie growing.
But in my experience, with a little bit of soothing, clay soil can be insanely friendly to vegetables.
First, here are some tips for clay earth ….
Now that you have digested the master tips, let’s move on…
It is true that clay soil has a number of weaknesses that make it look hostile to plant but is it the very worst type of soil for crop planting? Not really. Trust me. There are worse soils! (This will be a story for another day)
Allow me to justify this a bit.
As I said, even the much-maligned clay soil packs some wonderful qualities…
Let’s look at some of them;
The particles making it up are negatively charged. So, they pull and collect positively charged minerals such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium.
When crops land on clay, two things are possible:
They either wilt and die right away…
…or they say “Hmmmmh, this taste nice” and hang around.
Actually, some vegetables are at their happiest- when planted on clay! Yep- you heard me right…they would rather hang around;
For more on this, check out this article on vegetables that grow in clay soil.
Like every other soil, clay also has some negatives:
To grow your beloved vegetables in clay, you must fight some of the aforementioned negatives..
In short, your success is pegged on whether you succeed in improving it.
So, in this section, I will be showing you how to break down clay soil fast, and also answer one of the most common questions-“how to make clay soil drain better?”
You will also find this useful if you have ever asked “how to amend clay soil for vegetable gardening/?”
Let’s get down to business…
For best results, start amending your soil a year before planting..
Cover the chosen ground with around four inches of organic/humus materials- including aged manure, straw, grass clippings, shredded bark, sawdust, and leaves/leaf mold.
Mix both brown and green materials 50:50 to avoid nitrogen/carbon imbalances.
Do this in spring- a year before starting your garden in the subsequent spring.
Remember that humus materials decay quickly and need be added more frequently to see change.
Still on how to break down clay soil in garden, now add 3-4 inches of compost over your layer of organic materials.
Since compost is already broken, it helps to stabilize your clay soil’s structure.
You might have heard about adding sand to clay soil
Well, now distribute 2 inches of rough sand over your compost layer. This increases porosity and drainage.
Fine sand creates a cement-like compound, so only add coarse sand to your clay.
It’s time for the fertilizer- very important especially if your humus materials are not in a 50:50 balance (brown and green).
Take a complete fertilizer, like 12-12-12, and broadcast into your soil. Apply 2 pounds for every 100 square of your garden area.
Till the amended layers of clay soil using a rototiller (at least into the very top 8-10 inches).
Don’t till when wet because it may form difficult-to-break large clods.
Apply more layers of humus/organic materials, compost, and rough sand once per month over the summer.
Similarly, till the amendments again (into the top-most 8-10 inches of your clay soil.
Remember that the rate of your clay soil’s improvement is consistent with the frequency at which you add amendments.
Mid - late fall, scatter seed for a covering crop such as alfalfa, rye, barley, and clover. 1/3 pound of seed should be enough for 100ft2 of garden area.
Your cover crop should be left to grow naturally and untouched over winter. This way, your ground is protected over winter.
The additional humus from your cover also improves the overall soil structure.
To further improve your clay soil, add around 2-inches each of your aged manure, finished compost, and coarse sand over your cover crop.
Till your cover crop, and your added amendments roughly 10 inches into your soil.
Do this after all frost has passed (around late winter up to early spring) and when your soil is dry.
You should now break up any remaining soil clods using a spading fork.
Wait 2 weeks for the soil from your clods to dry before tilling your soil for a second time.
Use a leaf rake and a bow rake to rake your ground to its smoothest.
Now, Work your soil into unbending (straight) rows. You will use your garden hoe to create furrows going as deep as your vegetable transplants-specifically, their root balls and which rarely exceed 6 inches.
If you choose to direct sow seed, follow the applicable planting instructions to the latter.
Finally, loosen the soil lying between planting rows using the rototiller. Avoid disturbing the plant roots.
You can even use your garden hoe – to be safe.
This keeps your soil loose and also prevents compaction.
Then, if you can, place some stepping stones in the rows to help minimize foot traffic around your garden, as it can still compact your soil.
The above process works- but as you have seen, it will take your time and energy.
Luckily an easier fix would be to apply gypsum- it aerates all clay soils by binding the fine particles found in clay together thus creates clear air channels throughout your soil.
This allows space for vegetable roots to grow. Air and moisture will also move throughout.
How to apply gypsum to clay soil?
Well, let’s see the steps:
Setup your lawn spreader or even a hand-held/manual garden spreader to exactly 40 pounds per 1000ft2 for current lawns or gardens.
For unplanted soil, it should be set to 20-30 pounds per one thousand square feet.
Then take granulated gypsum and add to your spreader hopper till the gypsum tops the fill line.
Spread the added gypsum evenly all over your targeted surface- even over plants since it doesn’t harm them
Add compost or any organic matter to your garden soil then Mix with your gypsum using a rake or a hoe.
Water the gypsum with your garden hose or sprinkler into the soil. Remember to clean your spreader as necessary
So, how long does gypsum take to work?
While your clay soil will start improving within a few months, apply it each year for a minimum of 3 years.
That will give you the very best results.
So, have you seen how to loosen clay soil? And that growing vegetables in clay soil is very possible?
It Simple- just answer the question “how to improve clay soil for vegetable garden?” and you are ready to go.
Lastly, do you have more tips on how to break down clay soil in garden? Feel free to share with our readers by leaving a comment!
If chipmunks are eating your flowers or tomatoes and digging up your plant bulbs, you are probably at your wits end. A number of options are available on how to keep chipmunks out of your gardens and away from your cherished plants.
Before you can begin to take into consideration the best option to help you keep chipmunks off your garden, you need to keep some issues in mind.
First, chipmunks are nimble and small. They can tunnel, they can climb, and they can squeeze into tight spaces.These traits in the furry animals have a tendency to complicate the options at your disposal for their deterrence.
Second, they are fuzzy and diverse media have implanted this pleasant impression of how cute they are. Trapping them or using fatal repellants against them therefore feels so appallingly cruel.
Third, you must remain aware that they are protected animals in some states. As such, you need to look up your local laws prior to choosing which method to apply in keeping them away from your cherished plants.
With these issues in mind, below are eight ways in which you can go about protecting your garden and beloved crops from chipmunk attacks.
Spread around your tomato crop items whose smell chipmunks despise.
Sprinkling some blood meal around the root stems of your tomatoes, or placing un-chewed fragrant gum sticks within your tomato garden, go a long way in keeping these animal pests away from your tomato crop.
Give your pets freedom to roam outdoors particularly around your tomato crop. Letting your cat or dogs out in the garden yard often frightens chipmunks away.
You can also prepare a hot sauce or pepper concoction solution and spray it on to the surfaces of your tomato plants.
As an alternative, you can sprinkle cayenne pepper on your plants. This way, you will keep the furry animals away from your tomato crop.
Remember, however, that capsaicin, an active chemical ingredient in cayenne has toxic traits against beneficial pollinators, such as bees. As such, if your tomato crop relies on such pollinators, apply something else rather than a hot pepper spray, chili powder, for example.
You can keep away chipmunks by attracting their predators, a method to work with nature to protect your tomatoes.
Put up an owl box in order to attract the owl predators to your garden. This way, you will have owls taking care of, not only chipmunks pests, but also rats, mice, moles, and voles.
One way to go about preventing chipmunks from digging up your garden and crops is to remove features that provide them with cover as they dig for food.
As such, remove rock or woodpiles near your garden and trim back plantings.
In addition, these animals love rock walls and shrubs since they provide convenient venues in which to hide.
They love to hide within such venues until the coast is clear for them to start digging up your garden for food.
In this regard, removing these types of structures and plants from around your home garden makes your yard less attractive and more dangerous to the furry animals to dig in peace.
To keep the fuzzy animals from digging up your flower bulbs, plant them in bulb cages or beneath a plastic or wire screen ground cover.
The most basic methods at your disposal to keep chipmunks away from digging up your potted plants involve putting up physical deterrents. These work through curtailing their digging instincts.
One method involves placing a woven hardware mesh around your potted plant in its container. Remember to make provision for enough room to allow your plant stems to grow without the sharp woven wire mesh edges causing any damage.
Cover this woven hardware mesh with a thin layer of mulch or potting soil, whichever one that you prefer.
Another method involves spraying or sprinkling squirrel repellants around or on the plant container. Remember to follow the manufacturer instruction manual recommendations keenly to avoid mishaps.
Finally, keep away or remove anything that could attract the fuzzy animals to the vicinity of your potted plants.
Spilled birdseed, for example, presents chipmunks and various other small pests with a major attraction.
Squirrels, like their smaller chipmunk cousins, are avid foragers and can be a massive nuisance to a gardener. They spend inordinate periods gathering food, eating it, and storing away some of this food for future consumption.
They are quite persistent, will dig holes, and chew their way through nearly anything that stands in their path as they pursue a tasty meal. Rather than nibble on shoots or flowers the way rabbits and deer do, squirrels tend to dig downwards to pull up and munch bulbs.
Fortunately, there exists plants and plant bulbs that squirrels tend to avoid. Planting plants that squirrels detest can give you respite from their annoying onslaught.
Such plants have tastes and scents or odors squirrels and chipmunks abhor. In that regard, when it comes to methods involved in keeping squirrels and chipmunks away from your beloved garden, a good idea would be to think with your nose.
The lists of plants squirrels abhor include galanthus, fritillaries, alliums, and daffodils. Others are lily-of-the-valley, geraniums, and hyacinth.
Besides repelling various animals away from your garden, these plants are lovely border plants.They also provide early spring bursts of color around your yard trees and between your shrubs. A number of them are hardy perennials in several climates. They will add colorful drama to your garden.
The animal repelling plants will also thrive in those shady sections around your garden. Furthermore, their scents may be abhorring to foraging pests but extremely pleasant to the human sense of smell.
There are certain plants that chipmunks tend to avoid, despite the nuisance they are. These plants also tend to be pollinator friendly and grow well within diverse climatic environments.
Plants that chipmunks do not eat come in two general categories. These are perennials and annuals. The traits that these plants have that chipmunks detest include perennials with fragrant foliage. Such fragrant plants include bee balm, lavender, catmint, and hyssop.
Another trait in plants the furry animals detest is hairy leaves. Toxic traits in plants too, such as foxglove, mean chipmunks leave them alone.
Perennial plants you can grow in your garden that chipmunks will not eat include monarda or bee balm, Echinacea or purple coneflower, goldsturm or black-eyed Susan, hyssop, phlox, delphinium, spiderwort, and milkweed.
Other perennials are sneezeweed, yarrow, butterfly bush, irises, evening primrose, lavender, ornamental onion, chives, carmint, sedum, daffodils, and lupine.
On the annuals list of plants the fuzzy animals will avoid are celosia, zinnias, dahlias, cosmos, alyssum, petunia, ageratum, lantana, snapdragons, calendula, heliotrope, annual salvia, marigold, and calendula.
It is good practice to cut off spent flowers. This is especially on marigolds, zinnias, cosmos, coneflowers, or anything else that tends to form a tempting seed head once bloom is gone by.
Once you do this, you will not only prolong the blooming season but also encourage re-blooming. This is while removing tempting seeds chipmunks love to store and eat from your beloved garden.
An easy and entirely natural way to keep these animals from your garden is to provide them with food, away from your garden, where they cause damage.
The rationale behind this strategy is that if the animals have an easier access to their food, they will not make the more difficult choice of foraging or digging for food in your garden.
The animals have natural enemies. These include snakes, owls, dogs, and cats, among many others. Encouraging these enemies to patrol your garden goes a long way in protecting your cherished crops from chipmunks.
You could set out mothballs against the pests. Simply place mothballs near your crop of tomatoes, around chipmunk habitation holes, and around the foundation of your buildings that house potted plants.
These mothballs will not eliminate chipmunks from your environment. However, they will push these critters way back to the perimeter of your garden yard and away from your cherished plants.
Sprinkling hot spices, cayenne pepper, or chili powder for example, around areas chipmunks frequent in your vegetable beds or flowerbeds works perfectly as a deterrent.
Peppermint works diligently as a natural chipmunk repellent. Plant peppermint plants around your garden to repel the animals. A spray mist of water and pure peppermint oil drops on your plants is an excellent natural chipmunk repellant.
Other natural repellants include spraying with ammonium soap, predator urine, and castor oil concoctions.
Once chipmunks begin making a habit of chomping your garden and landscaping, it is time to get rid of them with finality. At your disposal are numerous trap varieties and natural deterrence methods.
Traps present you with an effective avenue to rid your garden off chipmunks.
Being small animals, the same traps used against rats work just as well.
In addition, snap traps and live traps present you with differing ways of disposing snared chipmunks.
Snap traps will kill the animals leaving you with a corpse to dispose.Live traps,on the other hand, present you with an opportunity to transport humanely snared animals to more suitable locations. This is in respect of prevailing laws.
Away from a snap and live trap, you can also use a bucket of half-filled water as a lethal trap.
Lean a wooden beam against the water half-filled bucket.On the wooden beam, on the ground around the bucket, and in the water, scatter sunflower seeds.
The chipmunk will fall into the water half-filled bucket and drown.
Most often, the dead chipmunk will have an infestation of mites, fleas, and various other critters. As such, always wear gloves whenever you handle and dispose the dead animals. Remember to wash your hands afterwards too.
A common and powerful homemade chipmunk repellent consists of a hot pepper and pureed garlic combination.
Steep these two components in a cup of hot and soapy water and allow the water to cool.
Strain the concoction and into it add a tablespoon of oil.
Shake the resultant concoction and pour it into a spraying bottle.
Use the spraying bottle to mist plants that you wish to keep chipmunks from.
Commercially produced repellents promising to repel squirrels from your garden will also effectively repel chipmunks.
One such repellent is thiram once it is sprayed on plant bark, stems, and bulbs.
Flakes, naphthalene, or mothballs placed around a garden housing your cherished plant crop works just as well.
So does any commercial product that contains thiram, nicotine sulfate, bitrex, polybutune, and methyl nonyl ketone crystals.
Of note is that these products must never be applied to plants that will be consumed by humans.
An application of these products requires repeat performances because watering and rainfall wash away the product from the plants they are supposed to protect.
Mix a teaspoon of Lysol, three ounces of Epsom salt, and a gallon of water.
Make a mist spray of this concoction and apply onto your cherished plants to keep away marauding chipmunks.
Chipmunks are an important aspect of the natural ecosystem that surrounds your garden yard.
Their importance lies in that they consist of the major meal item of numerous larger animals.
They are also critical in spreading certain environmentally important fungi and plants.
That being said, however, chipmunks have a tendency to destroy all that hard work you have put into your favorite plant crop and landscape. In other words, chipmunks are often a destructive pest.
To deal with this menace, exclusion forms the best and most effective avenue to deal with them. Where container potted plants feature, physical deterrents could help in controlling their digging instincts.
Should these forms of deterrence prove ineffective, fatal repellents and snap traps may be an effective last resort.
Is it true that there are vegetables that grow in clay soil?
You know clay has its advantages but being good for vegetables is not one of them.
So when I discovered some vegetables actually do well in clay, I felt like shouting “yippee!”
And I swore to share them with you.
So, if you want to know about crops for clay soil, hold on right there.
Now, Plants (and useful microbes) will need oxygen so as to access important nutrients.
However, naturally, clay soil is highly compacted, and dense thus it has little aeration.
Thus, growing plants hardly reach the nutrients.
In addition, it drains water poorly and instances of standing water are ever so common in wet weather.
Come to spring and it further irritates crops by taking forever to warm.
The bottom line is that even the most daring crop will find it very hard to survive such tough conditions
you can make clay more vegetable friendly by Improving it.
Here are some approaches I take:
This is an incredibly simple way to breathe life into your stubborn clay. Adding these materials improve aeration.
But there’s a catch:
These components are expensive and largely impractical, especially on large scale. Still, even if you just have a small yard, you need significant quantities of these materials.
Applying Rough organic materials can help aerate it. I am talking about items like straw, chopped leaves, garden compost, and even weathered compost.
These materials also build fertility.
Mulch protects your sticky earth from impact. This improves soil moisture levels while reducing weeds.
If your mulch is sourced from organic materials, you get a bonus of better fertility
All in all, improving clay soil gives wonderful results. The problem is that it takes time.
Okay? Very good!
Now, let’s me introduce your long-awaited crops that thrive well in clay soil (vegetables)
Broccoli- like most brassicas- requires heavier soils .
When grown in clay, broccoli doesn’t need heavy watering provided your soils’ moisture content remains at acceptable levels.
These cabbage relatives actually yield firmer heads when planted in clay soil and really thrives in cool weather. Remember to keep an eye on the soils Ph and moisture content.
Cabbage grows well in almost all soils, provided that it’s well drained. Thus, be sure to amend your clay soil with compost before planting.
To add nutrients, you can Apply compost tea or fish emulsion around a month after planting.
Cauliflowers survive in clay also. However, work your soil by adding compost or mature manure before planting.
Kale prefers loamy soil types (sand, silt & clay). Add enough compost plus aged manure in soil preparation.
Bean plants aren’t choosy when picking their growing conditions. They, therefore, thrive in compact clay soil, provided it’s amended with compost
These plants generally grow well in almost any soil. Avoid over watering them when planted on clay, as flooding water encourages wilting on top of root rot diseases.
Potatoes reduce compaction and prefer gardens heavy in organic matter and with a fairly acid pH
This again helps break up your clay soil. It matures without many preparations.
Both winter and summer squashes do well in all clay soils. However, add rotted manure or lots of compost to aide drainage
Pumpkins are not that fussy regarding soil texture. However, they still require fertility. So add one spade of well-rotted manure or compost to every hill during planting.
These shine in well drained and fertile soil. Raised beds, enhanced with more compost are recommended. You can also apply fish emulsion/compost tea to encourage fast growth.
Swiss chard tolerates enriched and well drained clay soils. You just add a lot of compost when preparing the soil.
If you were to ask them, Even vegetables that grow in clay soil will tell you that they prefer excellent drainage and top fertility.
Amending your clay soil makes the conditions friendlier to clay-loving vegetables and improves your harvest.
With your soil well worked, you will happily grow and enjoy rich vegetables like broccoli, kale ,Brussels sprouts, cabbages, potato, cauliflower, bean, daikon radish and pea
And those are the vegetables that grow in clay soil.
If you have been wondering where to buy pampas grass plants, then you have come to the right place.
In this post, you will learn everything there is to know about buying pampas grass plants.
Let’s do this.
Pampas grass (Cortaderia) is a cute ornamental grass very popular in landscaping.
It is rugged, tall, and good-looking.
Many years back, it was flowering in the rich South American plains. But because of its colorful ornamental properties, you find it beautifying lawns all over.
It can reach up to 10-13ft tall and spread around 6ft on the width with the exception of some dwarf variations which grows to just about 5ft.
Though Cream/white dominates, pink is available too.
Pampas grass plants are much more than just eye-catchers
First, it matures fairly fast. So? Filling large and barren landscapes will no longer be a headache.
Then, It grows thick thus so you get an effective privacy screen away from prying eyes.
In the same vein, it’s a superb windbreaker and an effective sound barrier.
Is there anything else?
Its stems are very stiff plus upright and its leaves razor sharp so you as well have an effective natural fence!
As you would expect with ornamental grass, Pampas Grass is;
In short, it offers a lot.
Before I come to your question where to buy pampas grass plants, I will shed light on a few more items…
Earlier on, you saw that this grass matures reasonably fast.
Well, Pampas grass is actually perennial. It goes dormant in winter and resumes growing during the spring.
This is the cycle:
Your plant germinates in the spring and will produce bulbs in the first year.
Flowering occurs principally in late summer (but for drier sites where it flowers much later)
Each season, the cycle repeats and in the end, it will bloom in around 2-4 years.
But your patience won’t be in vain- you will reap handsome rewards for up to 15 years (it’s maximum lifespan)
This is how you plant it.
Once established, unless there’s drought, you will no longer need to irrigate it deeply.
All in all, it’s by far very easy to grow and can ,in fact, be invasive- that’s why some states have banned it!
If you prefer this, Just sow your seeds directly into the prepared soil in spring (after frost goes).
Usually, Pampas grass is propagated in spring. You slice the Pruned clumps through with your shovel and replant elsewhere.
Know that Pampas grass normally bears female and male plumes on different plants
Only female plants should be propagated. Luckily, they are the most common variety.
And you will notice them as they tend to be much showier
You’re probably wondering:
“Does this require tons of hard work?”
Nope! Here comes the good news….
Once fully established, pampas grass requires minimal care- other than watering during extreme drought.
Climatically, the grass blossoms in USDA zones 7-11, but can also grow in well-protected zone 6 areas:
From this hardiness zone, there’s zero risk of damage from the winter temperatures despite that they can go below freezing to approximately15 F.
Pampas grass is very happy to flower here.
Temperatures can drop to 0F. Pampas grass may do well, but winter temperatures can damage your grass unless you house it.
Temperatures in this zone can reach -10 F and will potentially damage your grass- unless it’s well sheltered.
In this zone then, Pampas grass is categorized as marginally hardy.
We have already mentioned that it loathes cold regions (unless you are willing to grow it in containers).
That said, growing pampas grass in a pot can actually be fashionable…
Let me explain this next.
Let’s say you just desire a small section of this ornamental grass to install on your sunny patio or to fill a large urn so that you and your guests can enjoy an ornamental top…
Container growing will yield the look and the control you want.
Plus, it prevents it from overwhelming your yard or garden.
Hmmmh…..let me show you how you do it:
Choose where to place your pot. The spot should be well lit and sunny.
Select a well-draining container- at least 18” wide- for your grass.
Fill a third of your pot with a balanced (50/50) mixture of well-prepared soil and compost.
Place the root ball inside your pot then cover it completely with more of potting soil and compost. See to it that the root ball doesn’t protrude from container’s top
Water your grass thoroughly until water streams from the bottoms.
From there, Water the grass plant weekly in case there is less than 1-inch of natural precipitation (weekly).
Fertilize your grass when you plant it for the first time. The best fertilizer is the all-purpose 10-10-10.
When it’s still young, stake your grass to support its gradual growth. A tall wooden stake on the ground should be enough. Tie the plant to your stake loosely with a 6-inches strip of cloth.
So, finally, where can you source this amazing plant?
Well, whereas you can get individuals and small firms selling Pampas Grass, my favorite vendor is Amazon because I have always received orders in good condition and on time..
E-bay also vends a few varieties of the product but I found the following varieties on Amazon quite interesting;
This grows showy white 30” plumes over narrow, sharp foliage forming large clumps.
It will start looking good as soon as it flowers and will eventually transform your landscape into an irresistible natural-looking accented lawn
It comes in 15 chic trays of completely rooted 2-inch pampas grass.
If white is your color and you have been wondering where to get a resilient winter hardy ornamental grass, then this will make you forget your previous woes.
I believe if you can get a way of mixing white and pink, you would end up with the most appealing lawn in your entire neighborhood.
And that is where the large size pink pampas grass plant comes in.
Blooming exquisitely in USDA Zones 5-9, it adds texture and cute pink flavor to your landscape all the way from the blazing hot summer to frosty winter
When you want to create a unique look, you can go for this pink-Colored Perennial Specimen Plant for your Garden
It can rise to 6-12-inches and will be a wide ornamental spectacle
When deciding, check the following matters;
What color will it bloom? Aside from the dominant white, pink varieties are now available. So, what’s your favorite color?
Some come in pots while others prefer the seeds. I generally like my specimens in a container since seeds are much tougher to control.
You can study the neighborhood and see the variety that excels in your area rather than risking an unknown package.
Whenever possible, I like seeking the opinions of my vendors’ past clients. In most cases, products from reputable vendors will always perform
Well, that was an insanely long post but I am happy that you now know where to buy pampas grass plants
I hope I have answered all your questions on successfully planting and caring for pampas grass plants
So, now it’s your turn…let me know what you feel about pampas grass plants in the comments section.
Also, share this if you found it helpful.
Today will be discussing deforestation and how deforestation affects the carbon cycle. The carbon cycle is one of the most important aspects of the environment.
It is not only a life support system but also a threshold that maintains the balance between human, animal and plant life.
In essence, it is the movement of carbon between all the living forms of life.
Carbon is a very important aspect of life, with it being the fourth most abundant element of the planet.
The presence of carbon in an organism helps in many ways, from energy formation, structure construction or in the case of large living organisms like animals, both.
Deforestation is the process by which human beings destroy tree cover in forests through cutting trees, forest fires or uprooting them for logs.
The excessive need for firewood and other wood products has led to excessive harvesting of trees on the planet.
Deforestation affects the carbon cycle because the plants in form of trees use carbon to make their food through photosynthesis.
Through photosynthesis, the plants produce oxygen for animals to use. Animals then consume the plants for food producing carbon for the plants.
Factories are one of the highest producers of carbon dioxide.
The carbon cycle is important because life forms depend on it. Trees and other vegetation take in carbon and store it up.
In fact, old and mature trees contain a lot of retained carbon. Hence when trees die and leaves fall off, they decompose and leave the carbon on the top soil.
In the decomposition process, it also releases carbon dioxide.
All this carbon is then absorbed by the other vegetation, cancelling out any real threat.
However, without plant cover, the carbon goes out into the atmosphere. However, if it happens to be too much in the atmosphere would translate to poison.
Cutting of trees for various use via deforestation affects the carbon cycle and makes it uneven.
It means the amount of carbon dioxide form cars, industries and other sources becomes excess in the atmosphere. With no trees to help in the transformation of carbon dioxide to oxygen, the very air people and humans breathe becomes toxic.
Also, the more carbon dioxide there is in the world, the more it traps heat from the sun and keeps it into the atmosphere. This also means the amount of heat in the atmosphere becomes more that there is supposed have. Due to this, the effect of the heat increases the ozone effect.
The world is losing its tree cover to deforestation because we are clearing up forests for farming or building, which is already costing us a lot in terms of clean air and a clean environment. If the ozone layer is disturbed, there are dire consequences, including the climate change.
The earth then experiences climate change, which in turn turns out badly for the human population.
In respect to how deforestation affects the carbon cycle, glaziers melt, seas overflow and the sources of water all become contaminated with salts. The world is already experiencing all these signs in many areas. All this can be corrected with enough tree cover.
Forests are the lifeline of this planet something most of us tend to ignore.
Recommendations on dealing with deforestation
As established, forests and vegetation are not a luxury but a necessity. The more we cut trees without an alternative action that we could use to carry out the same work that the trees do, the more we suffer, we still need the trees.
There have not been any developments on criteria that can do the work that trees do, so the only solution is to retain as much tree cover as possible.
This is the process of rehabilitating the forests by replanting trees in areas that had trees but were cut off. Since trees take longer to grow, the solution can be to grow trees that grow faster.
Replenishing the forest where it once was is one of the best ways to correct the effect of deforestation on the carbon cycle.
Since there is a growing population there is a need for food. This translates to clearing of forests for farming.
However, there is the option of agriculture being incorporated with forestry.
This is a good method that can prevent deforestation from affecting the carbon cycle.This way, there will be food production and tree cover will be maintained.
For the factories that emit air that is poisonous need to take responsibility and use filters. This way, their actions do not have to affect the human population. It will also reduce the work load for the trees, so they can continue to produce oxygen for the living beings.
People need to make effort to retain the balance in the carbon cycle because if not, the whole population will have to walk around in gas masks just to have clean air.
We can already see it happening in the east in countries like china, where the large population is making it almost impossible for the trees to take up all the carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Soon enough, the situation will be the same all over the world.
How to go about growing broccolini from seed to harvest. Yes, Broccolini and not Broccoli as you might have thought.
Broccolini is a treasure on gourmet dining tables because of its tender, sweeter, and milder stems, florets and larger edible leaves, compared to broccoli. As such, Broccolini gives you much more delicate, colorful, and tasty vegetable options.
Broccolini is the trademarked name given to a hybrid cross between, on one hand, the American and Euro-Italian conventional broccoli and on the other, the Chinese standard broccoli or Gai Lan. People also, mistakenly, tend to refer to broccolini as baby broccoli.
A plant from the brassica or mustard genus family, scientifically named “Brassica Oleracea Italica X Alboglabra” or “Brassica Olceracea Var. Botrytis X Brassica Oleracea Var. Alboglabra”, its botanical name infers “eaten as a vegetable.”
Rather than form one large head like broccoli, broccolini bears numerous small and tender shoots.
These shoots have a peppery overtone and a subtly sweet flavor. In addition, you need not peel its stems as you prepare it for the dining table.
Discerning consumers give broccolini high praise for its unique texture and taste. Others refer this temperature sensitive vegetable as simply an expensive and voguish food item.
To enjoy its distinctive flavor, eat it in its raw form. Other ways of enjoying its best form is through adding it to your soups, and stir-frying it alone, or with carrots, mushrooms, and pepper.
Read this Sauteed Broccolini recipe to prepare a lovely dish for your family.
You can also steam it, complement you favorite casserole with it or even chop it up into your calzone filling.
Certain pieces of equipment are essential if you wish to come up with a decent crop. The list needs to include a soil testing kit and a shovel.
Other items on the list that may depend on the nature of your soil, may include sulfur, peat moss, limestone, 20:20:20 liquid fertilizer, 8:16:16 fertilizer, and either broccolini seeds or seedlings.
You can grow your broccolini crop in your home garden using techniques similar to broccoli. Of note, however, is that transplanted broccolini seedlings tend to grow better compared to directly sown seeds. As such, your best option would be to sow broccolini seeds indoors a few weeks before you transplant them as seedlings to your grow bag or garden.
Broccolini is a cool weather crop that flourishes in foggy environments within moderate summer temperatures.
You need to plant your broccolini crop early in spring in an environment where frost will not be a risk.
This crop is sensitive to high temperatures and grows best when temperatures remain below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Should you live in an environment that does not have this kind of weather, you could put up a green house and create such an environment.
In addition, avoid growing a new crop on the same area each year.
To begin the preparation process, test the soil in your garden to determine that pH levels lie between 6.0 and 7.0.
Should you have clay soil, you need to add finely ground limestone. This way you will increase your soil pH to the required level.
Conversely, should your soil have alkaline traits, add sulfur or peat moss to neutralize it.
About two weeks prior to sowing, apply two to three pounds of 8:16:16 fertilizer for every one hundred square feet of your garden.
Ensure the fertilizer is worked thoroughly into the soil. Do this with a shovel or any other digging tool and then give the soil about two weeks to rest.
With a stick or using your fingers, create between one-eighth and three-quarter-inch deep holes. The holes need to be between five and six inches apart. They should also be in rows twelve to fourteen inches apart.
Into each hole, place a broccolini seed before covering it lightly with soil. It is critical to note that since broccolini is a hybrid, you must avoid saving seeds for planting in the future.
Conversely, should you be planting seedlings rather than direct seeds, ensure your holes are twelve inches apart. In addition, ensure the holes are an inch deeper than the original depth into which the original seeds were planted.
You need to water your freshly planted seedbed regularly and thoroughly until the soil is moist to a depth of about six inches. Remember, it is moist, not soaked.
Wait until your directly sown seeds appear above ground and apply one cup of 20:20:20 liquid fertilizer per seedling. Make sure the fertilizer is diluted in respect of the package instructions.
Ensure that your crop gets at least two inches of water each week. Every fortnight, splash your crop with weakened fish emulsion or fertilizer tea to give it additional and essential nitrogen nutrients.
Gather your broccolini heads once the heads become full grown and prior to blooming.
Remember to cut long stems since the stem is just as wonderful as its florets on your dining table. Look for new heads to flame and leave behind some green leaves on the plant.
In any given year, a good crop will give you three to five sets of shoots per plant.
A whitefly or aphid attack curls your crop leaves, puckering them and turning them yellow. Spraying with organic insecticidal soap or introducing ladybugs deals with this menace.
Ragged holed leaves infer a cabbage worm or slug attack. Spraying with bacillus thuringiensis is a great remedy against the worms while snakes and birds will deal with the slugs.
Pinhole leaves indicate flea beetles on the rampage. Leaves chewed to the stem announce vegetable weevil attacks. Spaying with pyrethrum splash in the evening, to avoid harming pollinators, controls the beetle and weevil attack.
Leaves with yellow spots that become white mold during wet weather represent downy mildew. A Black leg attack results in black dots, dark patches on stems and leaves, and reddish and wilted bluish leaves. Sunken patches later girdle the stem and a plant then topples over.
On catching these maladies early, spray an organic fungicide, such as bacillus subtilis or copper. If the attack is too advanced, immediately remove and destroy affected plants. Do not compost such plants.
In comparison to broccoli, broccolini is easy to roast, sauté, or steam.
This makes it an excellent vegetable to branch out into for those who discern gourmet dishes.
It grows as an annual crop and tends to give its best when grown over the course of one year.
Best of all, it is easy to grow and nurture within your own garden.